It was all latex and two 3ft platinum 'ponytails' for Lady Gaga, not to mention a short black fringe at Thierry Mugler show Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2011.
Creative director and Lady Gaga's stylist Nicola Formichetti, created a fashion show that got Gaga dancing around in skimpy latex corset and pencil skirts smoking a cigarette, walking in sky high shoes.
Lady Gaga told The Daily Telegraph, "I was nervous, but I had to do it for Nicola and for Thierry Mugler, whom I love. I have been a fan of his designs since I was 18, and I used to search the vintage shops in New York for his clothes."
Ombré Queen: Fan-pleated, dip-dyed and twisted organza gown, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2011:
Office Diva: Fitted suit with feathered collar, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011
As we know, after the untimely passing of designer Alexander McQueen 9 months ago, his right hand, Sarah Burton was in charge of following in his creative genius footsteps. Burton had already been actually designing the line--along with Alexander McQueen for a while so it was a good guess that there wouldn't be a "Design Earthquake" occurring with this or any near-future collection.
Butch McQueen: Pant suit with gold embroidered leaf detail, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011
Spring/Summer 2011 was the first full runway show outing for Burton and by all accounts, it was a sublime outing. All the looks were VERY McQueen: The sexy, strong corseted dresses, the bold, whimsical yet mysterious prints, the Nouveau-Renaissance Warrior Goddess suiting, powerful shoes, and almost Angel-like gowns...
High-Low: White gown from Alexander McQueen Spring 2011
There was a flora-and-fauna disposition throughout the collection, from the pheasant-feathered skirts to leather leaves, golden wheat sheath dresses and raffia-covered brocades.
Kaleidoscopic: Printed fit-and-flare cocktail dress, Alexander McQueen Spring 2011
There's plenty here for McQueen Muse--and beer heiress--Daphne Guinness to like, as well as Young Hollywood Starlets, the likes of Carey Mulligan and Keira Knightley to wear on the red carpet. Designer Sarah Burton has big shoes to fill, but if this collection is any indication, she's on the right path.
Alexander McQueen Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show:
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2011:
Shipwrecked: White parka, Polynesian-inspired printed dress and black booties with white scrunchie socks, Dior Spring 2011
Ahoy Sailor! Yep, for Spring 2011 John Galliano's Dior girl is waiting for her sailor boyfriend to return home. Either that, or the Dior girl is his mistress at one of his many port towns. Now, he wouldn't be just a Sailor if she could afford Dior. And she wouldn't just be any girlfriend or mistress: She would be a very EXPENSIVE one.Models stomped the catwalk in sailor hats and ultra feminine frocks constructed from silk chiffon, crepe and georgette. Colorful "island" prints dominated. The hairstyles were definitely Retro as well: Bangs and turned under dos, very Betty Paige Pin-Up.
Calendar Pin Up: Model Chanel Iman works these printed shorts and twist-knot blouse, Dior Spring 2011
Of course, the clothes were great but the stars, were the accessories. Most fashion insiders know that Fashion Houses like Dior only make their money in purses, sunglasses, shoes and perfumes (for the most part). Here were two of my faves from this collection:
The highest leather Bootie pumps featuring Espadrille-like heels, buckles and "scrunchie socks" were so chic.....
And this royal blue Lady Dior patent leather bag will be a must-have for any Sailor's girlfriend with an extra $2500 in her--or her man's--checking account.
Christian Dior Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show (DO NOT MISS John Galliano's end-of-the-show walk!):
Yves Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2011:
Le Smoking 2011: Danish Model Freja Beha Erichsen in a black center-front slit gown, YSL Spring 2011
During this past Spring 2011 Fashion Week Season, so many designers--Jason Wu and Marc Jacobs to name a few, were inspired by the Master, Yves Saint Laurent. I think a lot had to do with this Summer's YSL Retrospective in Paris. I was lucky enough to have gone and yes, it was AMAZING!
Ready for my Cointreau Digestif: Aquamarine printed silk dress, YSL Spring 2011
So, since YSL was in the "air", it was up to the actual designer for the House of Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati, to really show everyone how it's done. And he did. It was an "Homage to the Master"--with plenty of transparency, flounces and ruffles, strong tailoring and even some ensembles resembling the iconic "Le Smoking".
Olé: Strapless ruffled black and fuchsia belted dress, YSL Spring 2011
But at the same time, Pilati brought the YSL woman to this decade, modernized her a little bit and added very directional pieces that she would love. I'm sure Monsieur Yves was smiling up in Heaven.
YSL Spring/Summer 2011 Runway Show:
Louis Vuitton Spring/Summer 2011
Like Dior, Louis Vuitton is one of those Fashion Houses that makes its bread-and-butter not on the clothes but on it's purses, luggage and sunglasses (to name just a few). I certainly got it when I visited the Paris flagship on the Champs Elysees over the Summer and saw the massive throngs of people BUYING EVERYTHING on the first and second purse-and-luggage floors. The clothing area, alas, was empty.
But Louis Vuitton designer Marc Jacobs has the envious job of having the luxury to push the boundaries of fashion with each new collection. For Spring 2011, he decided to go to the Far East. This makes sense since that's where the new, much-sought after Luxury Goods client is living. But it could be argued as to why a Millionaire's wife in Shanghai would want to dress up like she's in costume? Irregardless,there was lots of Asiana references as seen above.
There was also lots of transparency and high slits to you-know-where. It was a bold, colorful and a visually entertaining collection. Jacobs also got some Top Supermodels of the past to WORK the runway including a red-haired Carmen Kass, as well as Alek Wek (seen above).
and Kristen McMenamy (above) who ended the show in high-waisted black satin trousers and a zebra-print jersey top. Attagurl!
Tulle Explosion, Draped Leather: Bonjour Paris!Where's My Drink: Looking serious but fabulous, Lanvin Spring/Summer 2010
More from the European Collections...via my Downtown LA studio (he he!). I scout the web and bring it back to you (see, I'm really nice!). In my last post, I showed you some of the collections from Milan Fashion Week, including Dolce and Gabbana and Versace. Now, we have taken the "imaginary web train" from Milan to Paris. Here two of my favorite collections from Paris Spring/Summer 2010 Fashion Week. Lanvin: Draped Leather: A look from Lanvin Spring/Summer 2010
According to Sarah Mower, of Style.com, Lanvin designer AlberElbaz, blew the runway house down, with this collection. It started off slow, with black (not so Spring/Summer looking) dresses which didn't seem so different than what we have "come to know and love" in regards to the House of Lanvin; in essence, variations of what you can already see at the Lanvin department in Barneys NY. Lanvin Asymmetrical Goddess: A look from Lanvin Spring/Summer 2010
However, as the collection continued, it progressed into a full blown symphony of some of the most glorious looks that Elbaz has created. Lots of incredible asymmetrical drapes, folds and tucks that would make a patternmaker blush with technical joy!Liza With A "Z": A beaded jumpsuit from Lanvin Spring/Summer 2010
There was one black leather dress that was draped and tucked as if it was silk charmeuse! Lanvin ended with an explosion of multi-colored sequins worthy of a Liza Minelli tribute concert (love those beaded jumpsuits!) After watching the runway video, I only wish I was there to witness such a "Fashion Moment". Click BELOW for Lanvin Spring/Summer 2010 Runway Video:
Viktor and Rolf: How Will I Sit In My Limo: Viktor and Rolf Spring/Summer 2010
Oh Lordy!!! Speaking of "fashion moments": I just took a look at the latest Spring/Summer Collection from Viktor and Rolf and I had a grin so large that nothing could take it away. I also found myself exclaiming "Go on Viktor and Rolf, WORK IT OUT!!!!!!" loud and by myself, as I watched their runway video. It was, in three words "A Tulle Explosion". Who Ate The Tulle: Viktor and Rolf Spring Summer 2010
Tulle suits, tulle cocktail dresses and gowns with shirred, chopped up, out of control netting that seemed to defy gravity. Holes were cut out of tulle gowns as if a Haute Couture bullet had gone right through them--or a starving fashionistahad taken hold! Other gowns were propped up by inner structures that supported the yards and yards of gathered tulle to create incredible silhouettes. The entire show looked EXPENSIVE--all that fabric, all that beading, the staging, the hiring of Roisin Murphy to sing at their show. I kept thinking how I rarely even see Viktor and Rolf clothing at stores (and I shop A LOT!), so how are they affording to stage such grand events? (I'm jealous!) Defying Gravity: Viktor and Rolf Spring/Summer 2010
But then, I remembered: The Viktor and Rolf perfume! Oh yes, launching a fragrance can help a lot! I don't know who in the world will wear these frothy concoctions; other than the models in the Spring/Summer magazines we will see on newsstands in three months. But I doubt that is what the designers are concerning themselves with. I'm sure back at the Viktor and Rolf Showroom, and in their boutique, you will see something totally different and much more wearable, as it is always the case. This was a show to inspire and make rich Dubai women and fashion editors squeal with joy.
Click BELOW for the Viktor and Rolf Spring/Summer 2010 Runway Video:
Bullets, Rocker/Biker Chicks and Copying: Paris Fashion Week continues...Where's My Pool Cabana: A Gold Look from Balmain Spring/Summer 2010
The House of Balmain and its designer, Christophe Decarnin, are having their moment in the fashion spotlight. All the "it" girls are wearing his micro-mini studded dresses. I remember about a month ago, shopping at the Beverly Hills Neiman Marcus and seeing one of his studded creations on a mannequin and thinking to myself how chic and modern it was, and how EVERY girl should own one--if they had the $5000!! Then I turned on my telly, and saw both Pink AND Shakira wearing THE SAME Balmain dress at the MTV VMA's--the one I gawked at in Neiman Marcus.Dominique Deveroux 2010: A look from Balmain Spring/Summer 2010
For Spring/Summer 2010, he continued his studded hard-edged Biker Chic look and expanded on it. Lots of padded shoulders a la Joan Collins (yep, the strong shoulder is still very IN kiddies). Lots of leather minis and the skinniest of leather pants. Metallics, golds and liquid jerseys were also abundant. Bullet Belt: A look from Balmain Spring/Summer 2010
Some dresses had what seemed like studded midriff waistbands but then, upon closer inspection, turned out to be BULLETS! I guess in this crazy economic times, with all the wars going on, even fashionable girls must be armed! Beware of the Balmain Girl! Click BELOW for the Balmain Spring/Summer 2010 Runway Show:
Balenciaga: Hooded Chic: A Darker Look form Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2010
Nicolas Ghesquiere is still the wunderkid of Paris. And all those edgy French actresses, singers and trust-fund baby girls just adore him and his designs. If you are looking for pretty cocktail dresses, move along because Ghesquiere is not your guy. For Spring/Summer 2010, he's getting back to his rocker-chic hard edge (on the same tone as Balmain). His first exits were tight leather second-skin pants and a hoody. It didn't seem so Spring/Summer... But again, this is Spring/Summer Balenciaga style: She's got to be prepared for a light Paris Summer sprinkle of rain, perhaps. Ready For My Brie and Escargot: Leather and multi-colored beading at Balenciaga
There were dresses, minis of course, with a strong 80s vibe. Very Darryl Hannah in Blade Runner, if the film was re-made for 2010. Color and fabric blocking--a key Balenciaga aesthetic--was prevalent, as you can see from the dresses here. Rodarte-ish: A look from Spring/Summer Balanciaga 2010
Tweed, mixed with leather, mixed with silk, mixed with glittery sequins. A couple of the looks reminded me of Rodarte, and how they like to mix the fabrics in unexplainable ways. On the same note, Cathy Horyn of the New York Times also commented on how one of Nicolas Ghesquiere's designs looked very much like a Raf Simons Menswear look he had done recently. Very interesting to say the least.This has not been the first time Ghesquiere has had to fend off the "copying" critiques. Click BELOW for the Balenciaga Spring/Summer 2010 Runway Video:
Couture Wonderment was handed over on a Fashion Silver Plate--or more on a broken-glass runway stage--by the design genius of Alexander McQueen this past week for the Paris Fall 2009/10 Season. While every other designer showed recessionista fashions--dark, moody, underwhelming perhaps--mirroring the state of the depressing world economy and the state of retail and fashion in general--one of the last "bad boys" of fashion said "to Hell with that!"The Flying Mitered-stripes Nun: Alexander McQueen Fall 2009/10
For Fall 2009/10, Alexander McQueen decided to just "serve it" to everyone; the way a fierce Drag Queen "serves" it to you at a Drag Queen Walk-Off! Speaking of Drag Queen, the make up and styling was beyond out of control: The Leigh Bowery-meets-Amanda Lepore sex-doll lipstick, the Edie Beale "Grey Gardens" head wraps and fabulous lamp-shade hats from the genius of hat designer Philip Treacy (some of the hats actually had soda/beer cans tucked and wrapped into the models hairstyles!). It all added to the in-your-face collection that made editors, buyers and fashionistas alike speechless.200 Pattern Pieces: A Museum-worthy Leather Coat from McQueen's Fall 2009/10 Collection
In essence, McQueen decided to pay homage to his "Best Hits"(he's done this before) as well as give a nod to the old guard of Couturiers such as Hubert de Givenchy and Dior with twisted yet divine representations on hounstooth suitings and the New Look silhouette. When I first looked at the images, I was like "Is this Couture?" because it certainly was not Ready-to-Wear. The pieces were exquisitely complicated, tailored to an inch of the models size 2 bodies, bias cutting, mitering perfectly into a seam, a laAdrian; it had all the elements of a Museum-worthy Haute Couture Collection. I think he definitely blurred the line with Couture vs. Pret-a-Porter with this collection. Lacroix is Jealous: Pouffed silk printed gown, Alexander McQueen Fall 2009/10
The gowns were either double-pouffed silks, twisted and knotted in ways that will leave true devoted lovers of the art of fashion in awe (and I, for one, would love to take a look at those pattern pieces and deconstruct it all) or tightly packed feather concoctions that would make the most beautiful of swans blush. Pheasant Anyone? White feathered cocktail dress, Alexander McQueen Fall 2009/10
Thank God he's got the Gucci Group backing him, otherwise, to be honest, he would not have been able to create such a spectacle of Couture-worthy pieces. This is not something an up-and-coming designer could ever afford to do (even if he or she were technically able to do it). And some Industry insiders argued whether or not it was even wise for McQueen to do it (see Style.com Review HERE). It all made for a collection that would be talked about for months to come and isn't that really the point anyway?! Click on the two videos below for highlights of the Alexander McQueen Fall 2009/10 Runway ShowThe First shows close-ups of those "soda/beer can" headwraps...
Joan Collins Meets Robert Palmer Girls: It's all about the 80's and The Super ShoulderThe Super Shoulder at Nina Ricci Fall 2009/10
Milan Fashion Week has come and gone and now, the world's press--and editors and fashion buyers alike--have moved onto the City of Lights, Paris. Two trends are making a standout this season: The Eighties and a Fierce Shoulder. It seems ironic that in such a dire economic situation that the world is under, the 80's--a time of prosperity and spend spend spend--would be a theme that designers would cling to. Lord knows the reason, but they have.
Frida Giannini for Gucci:Slouched Skinny 80's at Gucci Fall 2009/10
Case in point: Frida Giannini at Gucci. Her entire collection celebrated Tina Chow and the 80's style of ultra feminine, strong, who-cares-what's-going-on-in-the-economy power post-Disco girl. For Fall 2009/10 Gucci, pants are only available in two silhouettes: Super skinny or slouched-to-super skinny. Club 80's at Gucci Fall 2009/10
Strong 80's shoulder-pads and silk jersey one shoulder club dresses highlighted the collection. The message for Giannini was clear: The World economy is going to Hell and a Hen basket, but the Gucci girl is going clubbin'.
Dolce and Gabbana:The Leg-o-Mutton Sleeve at Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2009/10
For Fall 2009/10, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, based their collection on Elsa Schiaparelli with overt 30's and 40's references. Yet to me, it looked a lot more like an episode from Dynasty and an homage to Nolan Miller at times. Those oversized leg-o-mutton sleeves were out of control--and in a kind of campy, good way. Marilyn Monroe Pouffed at Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2009/10
They were the kind of sleeves in my old fashion school pattern book which my instructors would still somehow make us create. I remember back then, thinking to myself "Boy, these are some tacky sleeves and why do I have to make them?" Well, what was tacky then, is on-the-mark now. Time to dust off that pattern book and give myself a refresher course in oversized leg-o-mutton sleeves I guess! Click below for the Dolce and Gabbana Fall 2009/10 Runway Show (in 2 parts):
Olivier Theyskens for Nina Ricci: I Am Not In A Good Mood: The Nina Ricci Girl is ready to Fashion Kill!
Marrying the two Fall 2009/10 trends of the 80's and Super Shoulders is the genius of Olivier Theyskens in his final collection for Nina Ricci. His swan song was hailed by editors, fashion press and buyers alike as one of his best. His woman was the Robert Palmer Girl--but for 2009/2010! The Original Robert Palmer Girl
His collection seemed to be an ode to that Theyskens girl he created in his head who in one corner is ultra fashionable and chic, yet at the same time, can stomp you and whip you into shape if you speak to her the wrong way! I want to hang out with this woman...OK, I actually wanna BE THIS WOMAN!!! Besides strong Thierry Mugler-like jackets, super skinny skin-tight pants, 80's slicked back chignons, defined Shiseido-girl looking make-up, he also showed some of the most dangerous boots and shoes since Naomi Campbell fell in her Vivienne Westwood platforms. Are you Kidding me? The Nina Ricci no-heel boots
Take a look at these boots with no heel--I can only imagine what the models' reactions were when they were handed these shoes and told to walk for their lives! I can see a Tyra "America's Next Top Model" episode comin' on...that or Ru Paul's "Drag Race"! Click Below for a short video on his last collection for the House of Nina Ricci:
